Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Marostica Flea Market

Marostica itself is a nice town to visit at any other time, but on the first Sunday of every month the town is taken over by stalls selling everything from vintage clothing, paintings, war memorabilia, and the ubiquitous kitsch.  Not only is the market a nice place to get your local acquisition of random useless stuff, but the setting itself is also perfect: sit in a cafe and people watch, walk around with a gelato, and maybe even hike all the way up to the castello superiore.

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Pasubio: Cima Palon, Dente Italiano, and the 52 Galleries


Although its beauty and its height--it is the tallest chain of peaks in the Prealpi mountains--are reasons enough to hike to the top of the Pasubio Mountains, it is really the remnants of the battles fought here during the first world war that are the real reasons for visiting these mountains.  Everywhere are reminders of the terrible battles fought here, from crumbling barracks, networks of underground tunnels, rusted shrapnel and bits of artillery, and even human bones. 

Monday, May 23, 2011

Villas of the Veneto: Villa Barbaro (Maser)



Built in the 1550s, Villa Barbaro, located on the feet of the Asolani hills and right on the prosecco-producing hills of northern Treviso, was a turning point in the construction of countryside villas.  For the first time, the barn--the two adjacent wings that are dominated by the large series of arches leading to the two outer towers used to hold pigeons--was united with the central villa, used to house both the business of the agricultural operations of the villa, as well as the living quarters of the owners.  This was the start of the five-part profile, with a central building harmoniously flanked by two elements on either side. 

Sunday, May 22, 2011

Italian Beer Series: Birrificio Italiano Vudu (Lurago Marinone)


Like Tipopils, Vudu is one of Birrificio Italiano's rifts on classic German recipes, many lost in time due to changing beer consumption habits.  In this case, the dark weizen, a version of the typical German weizen that went away due to the increasing popularity of the pilsner.  Unlike a bock-weizen, this beer is not so strong, at 5.6% alcohol.  Although dark like a dunkel, the flavor of roasted fruits or chocolate is not so pronounced, maintaining the clean fruitiness of a summer weizen.  On pour, the cloudy, dark amber beer produced an off-white large head that lingered on the sides of the glass.  The aroma is of chocolate and the grasiness of weizen, even with a little bit of banana.  The taste is of roasted fruits balanced by the lightness of very prominent carbonation, finished off by a pleasant bitterness.  A surprising beer from Birrificio Italiano, a balancing act of heavy and light that is pulled off with perfection.  

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Orvieto


I visited Orvieto during a three-hour stop on my train ride from Rome to Vicenza.  I have heard much about its famed duomo, with its lushly decorated facade and frescos depicting Judgement Day by Signorelli, but unfortunately I visited on a Sunday and the church was closed for services until the afternoon.  But it wasn't a complete waste:  the facade is itself a marvel to look at, and Signorelli's frescos were terrifying, even if viewed from afar through the metal gate that closes it off from the public.  And the town itself is pleasant to walk through, with its high position affording it great views of the surrounding Umbrian landscape and its devoid of visitors early in the morning made it ideal for roaming.  I'm sure there were a lot to discover, but I am convince the few hours I spent were enough.  The town is special, but its appeal--like ever charming town in the country--could be had in many other towns fortunately far more convenient for me to visit.